Christine Daae's Wishing Gown

CHRISTINE DAAÉ'S BLUE WISHING GOWN

Current state of the dress. Started on a new bodice. The current one looks god, but isn't comfortable to wear any more...

HISTORY
As so many others I have this as my favourite Christine costume. The "Wishing" gown, or the blue dress, which Christine wears in parts of the second act (most featured during the heartbreaking "Wishing you were somehow here again"), is the only "civil" day dress she wears in the show. I simply love the shape of the outfit, and I'm also quite taken by how such an extravagant dress can give a casual "jeans feeling", much due to the colour. Maybe that's why it appeals so much to us modern people?

The blue "Wishing" gown was my dream for a long time. And when I attended the movie "I'm Dina" as an extra and saw all the wonderful Victorian costumes they used I got highly inspired. I'd been planning to make the Wishing gown for years, but I never really did anything about it, beside searching for the right fabric for ages. Eventually I gave up, because there aren't many stripy/floral blue fabrics out there - at least not affordable ones. As a curious side note: that blue silk used in the stage costumes isn't unique for POTO. I've seen the exact same one being used in the Forsyte Saga (blue) and in "Dangerous Liaisons" (golden). So it's definitely for sale out there - but I don't even dare think of the price....

In January 2003, my beloved mother died, far too young. I still miss her like crazy. One of the worst things we had to do was to go through her stuff and clean her apartment. While I was removing her curtains, I got the song "Wishing you were somehow here again" from Phantom into my head. At first, I just thought it was because of the lyric. And it probably was. But it struck me the curtains was a reason as well. They were heavy, solid and a little shiny, with a paisley/flower pattern and stripes. And in an amazing blue/lilac color. It was exactly how I imagined the "Wishing" fabric, except for some broad green/yellow stripes. It may seem like a wierd thing, thinking of a costume when one's mother is dead. But one's mind is a strange path.

INSPIRATION

MY DRESS

AND THE STORY GOES ON....
The next months I searched the web for tips, patterns, pictures and useful info. I actually couldn't find too much on the web other than pictures (and of course, a few really gorgeous replicas) - but no patterns. But I got a quite clear idea of what I wanted and what I didn't want. All the research actually made me make this WISHING GOWN GALLERY, and I hope I have made the job easier for others. Personally I preferred the original/European version, though I adore the other versions too (so many yummy details!). There's a great picture of Sarah Brightman on the Opera House roof in Paris which were very helpful. I must admit my pattern is very simpified compared to the original, especially seams of the bodice, but the overall look of the gown shows what I aimed for.

The dress is now basically finished, as seen in the pictures above. It took me nearly two years to make it - but that may give a wrong picture of the actual work.... I didn't on it every day - or every week for that matter. When I didn't feel qualified to continue, I put it away - sometimes for several weeks - until I felt ready to go on. I'm glad I did, because in the process I was invited backstage at the Danish production of "Phantom of the Opera", and I got to see both old and new versions of the costumes used by Christine and Carlotta. That helped me more than I can say. Thanks Viktoria, for your kind and generous heart. :)

My replica is meant to copy the classic European versions, with a V shaped and draped apron, a decorated faux vest in front, full pleated cuffs with lace, a broad waterfall backdrape and navy velvet ribbon over white trims. I still have some fabric left, and I'm playing with the thought of making backdrapes in the style of the US versions. I'll see what's left of scraps after this last re-modeling...

If I were to do something different today, it would be to use more panels for the bodice, because it makes adjustments easier. The bodice is now a bit tight over the bust, even though I've tried to remodel it twice. I would also use another fabric that velvet for the back drapes. It LOOKS really cool, but it's heavy and drags the skirt down a bit in the back. Still, this was my first grand costume project, and I'm rather fond of the dress, with or without its flaws.

MATERIALS USED
*Blue, stripy fabric: around 12 metres
*Navy blue velvet: around 3 metres
*White unbleached cotton for lining: around 2 metres
*Blue velvet trim: 7, 25 metres
*While lace ribbon: 7, 25 metres
*Beige tassel ribbon: 3 metres
*Laces at cuff: 2 metres in total
*Lace at necklining: 2 metres
*Tattles at collat and cuffs: 2, 20 metres
*Appliquées: 40 in total *Hooks and eyes in front: 10 in total

...BUT THE STORY DIDN'T END THERE...

My body changed since I first made this dress, and I re-did the bodice two times. But it never got quite right. Last time I tried the full outfit on, the bodice was actually uncomfortable to wear. I tried changing the seam in the back, to no avail. I tried expanding the area under the sleeves, but no. And then I realized: it will be a lot easier to make a brand new bodice than continue to change and re-sew the old one. Remodeling is a lot harder than it sounds (and looks), and you never know quite how the result turns out. And I have a treasure in my possession - an authentic Wishing dress, used in Hamburg in the early 90's. The amazing thing about this costume is that it almost fits me. Which means I can use that bodice pattern as a basis for other bodices. And so I drafted a pattern from the Hamburg original and dug out the scraps I had from when I first made the Wishing gown.

There are LOTS of panels in the Hamburg bodice. 12 in total, each three layers (two cotton layers, one with the blue fabric). It has boning both in between the cotton layers, and in fabric-covered metal bones stitched to the seams. In total I had to cut out 36 pieces; 3 of each panel. Lots of cutting! I then ironed all pieces and started sewing channels for the boning. The upper layer was then pinned to the boned layers, and everything was pinned together. Current status is: some seams has been sewn and ironed, some are still just pinned together. But the fit seems very good! Just my size, and the feeling of getting a tailor-made piece (although the tailor is me, he-he...) is wonderful. I've tried to copy the amazing seamwork of the Hamburg one as best as I could, especially the lines in the back. It looks very good, albeit not quite at the level of the Hamburg one...

What remains is to sew all seams and iron them. And then either bind or zig-zag them. I need to do a final fitting so everything fits just as it should, and I also need to cut and sew the sleeves. And then there's the false vest and decorations. Not sure if I'll use the cuffs from the current bodice, or make brand new ones. I'm rather fond of the existing cuffs, but the actual sleeves needs to be replaced. Oooh, and I want a big, fluffy bow in the back. The Hamburg one is made over stiff netting, which gives helps maintain the shape. Might consider to the same.

More to come... In the mean time, here's pictures of the in-progress bodice:

I didn't use a specific patter for my Wishing gown replica, because I'm just no good with patterns. But if YOU are I recommend Truly Victorian - one of the best websites for Victorian patterns and inspiration. Different from commerical patterns (won't mention names...), the Truly Victorian patterns allows enough fabric to make the look authentic, and their patterns are well drafted.

Check out THE WISHING GOWN GALLERY for more pictures of the stage versions.

MY PHANTOM COSTUME REPLICAS